as i write this, dusk is falling. because we're so close to the equator, the length of day between seasons only varies by about 10 mins. so, in essence, its dawn at around 0630 and dusk around 1830 - every day!
today was sunnier and warmer than yesterday, with our time split into 3 major chunks. the morning was spent visiting kibera, one of the largest slum settlements in africa with a population of of about 700,000 people living in about 5 square kilometres. its quite something to visit, and difficult to know how to describe it. we weren't supposed to take cameras in, as it was rude to take photos, so i don't have any photos of kibera. but if you've seen the movie, 'the constant gardener', then you'll see kibera as the scenes shot in the slums were shot there.
kibera seems to have grown up in a valley that has a railway line running through it. people live and work in appalling conditions with rubbish strewn about, open drains running down the middle of the tracks that serve as roads - tho the only vehicles that use the roads are wheelbarrows. the roads also look like they become open sewers, and must be diabolical when it rains. houses are made from corrugated iron, mud, and sticks, some concrete, and wood. very, very basic living conditions, though many have electricity (lines jury-rigged to mains supplies), tv, and stereo.
the smell is quite bad, and actually reminded me of the pig-stys on the farm - the smell hits you in the back of the throat. there are people everywhere - cooking, washing clothes, fixing bicycles, selling charcoal - and just about anything else. little children are running everywhere, tons of them, all coming up to us to shake hands and chanting together, 'how are you, how are you?', and when we asked them the same question they all replied, 'fine!' very cute.
our guides took us around to their friends' houses, who all invited us in and talked, and they all asked us to pray for them. our guide (we were in 3 groups) was a young man of 20 years named juma, who had been a christian for about 3 years. he had completed his 'o' levels in physics and maths and was hoping to go to uni and from there to become a pilot in the civil aviation industry. he was a really nice young man, and i prayed for him in his home of 2 rooms that god would bless him in his plans.
while there, we visited the centre for urban mission. this is the outfit where the cms guy we met last night - colin smith - works. he and some of his colleagues explained what they do and why. the big idea for them is that the gospel must be practical, and not just another good idea. they are passionately concerned about the whole person, and so get involved in projects that meet the practical needs that the people of kibera have. the main social concerns are: poverty, stress, sickness, hiv/aids. the anglican church is involved in all of these issues through various projects. there are 2 new anglican parishes in kibera: st jerome, and st phillip; and there are many other churches there too - the majority being independent pentecostal churches that just grow up out of the local community.
and while there is grinding poverty, there is also abundant hospitality. while we were at the centre, we were given traditional milky tea and mandazi (a large, triangular shaped doughnut). but before the food arrived, a young woman brought around a bowl of water and towel for us to wash our hands - very humbling to be served in this way.
the second chunk of the day was slightly surreal. after leaving kibera, we came back for a 3 course lunch with the archbishop of kenya, before going to his offices for discussions with him and some of his staff. he seemed a genuinely nice man, very interested in, and committed to the freedom and welfare of the whole person. this 'social gospel' is very important to the kenyan anglicans. he said something that struck me, 'peace is another name for development'. you can't have development without peace, and so he is concerned to be involved in brokering peace in places of conflict so that development can take place.
the third chunk of the day was a late afternoon visit to the national cathedral in nairobi. they have a gift of a photo from one of the american apollo space missions, with the caption, 'jesus walking on the earth is more important than man walking on the moon.' they also have an incredibly busy sunday schedule of 13 services per day, and a great many other things going on besides! but speaking to one or two 'on the side', it seems that the cathedral is really only for those who 'belong', and so the 'outsider' doesn't get much of a look in. it made me think of how we use some of our cathedrals in england, and how much more open they seem to outsiders and how they can be experimented with.
then in the evening, we went up to the 'fairview hotel' to have a drink and relax. its an incredibly plush place with a beautiful swimming pool. only rich people can stay there. after that, went back to the guest house to watch barcelona beat arsenal 2-1 in the uefa cup. my mate dave was at the game in paris, and we were texting each other throughout it.
what a day of contrasts: from poverty to luxury. uncomfortable to be in both. as rich people, we have options in life. the poor don't.
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